Wrapping up my trip to Panglao and rest of Bohol

Life got in the way. Manila Water and Maynilad under fire from Duterte. Taal volcano eruption. Novel Coronavirus/COVID-19 global health emergency. ABS-CBN franchise renewal/press freedom issue.

Too much.

Anyway, here is my last entry about my trip back to Bohol after 16 years.

Hinagdanan Cave

Hinagdanan Cave

Hinagdanan Cave. Sorry, I only had my Oppo F7 to take pictures with. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

When I went there in late October 2019, I had the chance to go to Hinagdanan Cave in Panglao, a limestone cave with brackish but clear water. There is a small parking area for motorbikes and four-wheeled vehicles in front of some stores selling souvenirs, bottled water and snacks. They have a bathroom there for those who wanted a quick shower after swimming in the cave. But I didn’t. Good thing I resisted because all they had there was a drum with water of questionable cleanliness. There’s a small storefront there manned by people from the local government of Panglao. You have to pay the entrance fee (tourism fee) of P50 per person. I think that’s reasonable since they employ people to keep the place clean and some life guards. They also keep the place well lighted.

Hinagdanan Cave. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com.
Brackish water of Hinagdanan Cave is clear. I can see my feet underwater! This photo is owned by callmecreation.com.

According to one of the swimmers there, the deepest part of the natural pool was 10 ft but it looks deeper because it was dark so it was a bit scary. But they have lifeguards there so swimmers have less to worry about.

 

Alona Beach is the first place I’ve been to in Panglao. It was a busy strip of white sand. I barely set foot in this area this time around. Too many tourists for my taste but they have a wide selection of food choices compared to where I was near Dumaluan Beach.

Kinilaw: Raw tuna, slivers of ginger, tomatoes, onions dressed in kalamansi juice, vinegar, sugar and pepper.

Around Bohol: Baclayon Church

A day after I went around Panglao on a motorbike, I hired the van (the one that brought me from Panglao International Airport to Dumaluan) to tour me around Bohol again.

I skipped the Blood Compact Monument because there was really nothing there but photo op. I already saw it 16 years ago so no need to stop. It is one of the first stops that tour vans will offer tourists.

Then it was Baclayon Church. I was curious how it is now holding up after being destroyed by the 2013 earthquake that shook Central Visayas.

Loay River Cruise

I asked the driver to skip Loboc River Cruise because it eats up too much time and I’ve already been there. But since it seems like tour drivers get their free lunches from these dine-in cruises, my driver insisted that I try Loay River Cruise in lieu of Loboc. Ok fine, I was already hungry too. It was ok, I guess for P500 per head for a buffet. Same price for a meal at Dumaluan. The floating restaurants have singing MCs that serenade diners the entire river cruise. Ours sang a variety of foreign songs, much to the delight of the Korean and Chinese tourists onboard.

Loay River Cruise. Loay, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com.

One of the stops in the Loay River Cruise is the make-believe tribal community comprised of local Agta/Ati/Aeta people. This gimmick caters mostly to foreign tourists who do not know any better. I should be offended that our local indigenous peoples are exploited this way but at least they are employed…I’m conflicted.

Some of the local Ati/Aeta people in a stylized tribal village in one stop of the Loay River Cruise. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

Chocolate Hills

After lunch, my driver brought me to an area where I can ride ATVs to view the Chocolate Hills from the ground. I spent about P1,000 an hour for this. Nothing spectacular. I just got myself muddy but I learned how to drive an ATV. No photo.

Last stop was Chocolate Hills in Carmen, Bohol. I was curious because I heard that the lookout area was partially destroyed by the 2013 earthquake. Thankfully, it’s already restored. It’s not yet brown since the region is still experiencing habagat.

Chocolate Hills (not yet dry season, hence, the color) in Carmen, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

The driver asked for P3,000 for the roundtrip but I asked for a discount since we skipped some tourist spots like the butterfly farm and the Tarsier Center. I ended the trip by going straight to the airport.

Panglao International Airport is a big improvement over the old Tagbilaran airport where I arrived 16 years ago. But it could do with more (more, more) improvements now that Aboitiz Infrastructure won the concession for its redevelopment and operations. It needs more seats, commercial establishments (food concessionaires), and more electrical outlets where we can charge our gadgets.

 

I want to go back to Bohol again. And again.

Bohol reminded me why I love my country. There is beauty hidden in faraway corners.


👋

Balicasag: The place where I fell in love with underwater life

Balicasag Island, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

First of all, skip the dolphin watching. You are unduly stressing the dolphin pods since the boats’ propellers disturb them. The first time I encountered dolphins in the wild way back in 2003, we were the only boat then at 5:30 am. This time, there were more than 20 boats chasing these poor dolphins. I should have told my boatmen not to go. I just wasted time. I told them to head straight to Balicasag. I was not interested in stressing the dolphins anymore.

When I went snorkeling in Balicasag 16 years ago, I was still wearing a life vest to keep me afloat even though I was a competent swimmer. At that time we didn’t anchor on the island and just stayed near the shore for snorkeling. There I had the life-changing experience: I saw schools of fish, of different kinds and sizes and felt like I was in a gigantic aquarium or was in National Geographic. It was sooooo beautiful. My stories of Balicasag entranced my mother, who immediately booked her trip to Panglao and dragged some friends with her. Twice.

Anyway, I was back after more than a decade, now braver in the water. This time we were able to anchor on Balicasag’s rocky shores but had to pay PHP 250/per head/per attraction and have a man row a small boat to spots like “Coral Garden” or “Sea Turtle Dive”. I opted for those two spots (That’s already PHP 500 but that’s ok since it keeps them employed and keep them from engaging in dynamite fishing). Since I am more mobile this visit and more inclined to dive deeper and farther, even away from the sea wall, my boatman grew exasperated with me because he was trying to keep up with me.

I still suck at equalizing so I could not really dive deeper along the sea wall and I was a bit afraid of the vertical currents–the bane of SCUBA divers. Still, I was able to dive deep to reach (but not touch) the corals.

In the sea turtle spot, I was able to get close to some turtles and swim above them, behind them, ahead of them. It was so beautiful but this experience was ruined by my grumpy boatman who wanted to head back to Balicasag shore earlier than scheduled. Annoying, really.

The next stop was Virgin Island, which was really a sandbar. It was already high tide so there was nothing left of the sandbar and basically the fish mongers/ambulant vendors were all underwater.

Floating palengke in Virgin Island, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

The vendors cater mostly to foreigners since they sell sea urchins, for only PHP 20 each. I don’t think Filipinos would waste their precious time in the water just to eat raw sea urchins. Unless they have a taste for uni sashimi.

These are the smaller sea urchins selling for PHP 20 each in Virgin Island, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com
The bigger sea urchin selling for PHP 80 each. Or less, depending how nice your seller is. Virgin Island, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

This guy told me they just harvest the sea urchins in the nearby seagrass spot a few hundred meters away from where we were. Judging by the amount of sea urchins consumed that moment, I wouldn’t be surprised if the creatures would be decimated from the area.

Just like any local, I was more interested in the sandbar than filling my tummy with raw sea creatures.

Yep, the water is super shallow in Virgin Island, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com
A few mangrove trees there. Virgin Island, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com
Sorry, can’t resist a selfie. Virgin Island, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

So after cooking under the sun for hours, I just decided to relax a bit and explore Panglao island more via a rented motorbike and I had a driver.

San Agustin Church, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com
Sunset at San Agustin Church, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

Lovely, lovely day.

Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

Back to Bohol after 16 years

Dumaluan Beach, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

This. This view is one of the reasons for loving this country when everything else seems to fail. The two-hour travel time from Quezon City to Ortigas for ~7 km. One stupid thing from the government to another stupid thing…Endless reasons why I am so stressed out.

Anyway, as a birthday gift to myself, I used my Cebu Pacific GetGo miles to have a free roundtrip ticket to Bohol and booked using my Agoda VIP points. What I did was I tried to locate where Bohol Beach Club is on Google Maps and checked which resort is beside it. That way I am assured that the beach front is good. Bingo! It was Dumaluan Beach – Marilou Resort. My hunch did not fail me; I chose the perfect spot for my decompression in late October.

I took the earliest flight out of Manila and arrived in Panglao International airport at around 7:30-ish. There was no public transport available at the new airport (the last time I was in Bohol in 2003, there were tricycles outside Tagbilaran Airport). I had no choice but to book one of the white vans for PHP 400 for a 15-minute ride to Dumaluan Beach.

Warning: There are two Dumaluan Beach resorts there. The two resorts are owned by siblings but Marilou Resort is the newer one. Dumaluan Beach I is a semi-public beach which can be accessed by day trippers.

It was still early and the check-in time is around 3 pm (really??? It sucks, I know) so I asked the front desk if I can leave my stuff there so I can maximize my time in the crystal clear waters surrounding Panglao.

This is around 8:30-ish in the morning at Dumaluan Beach, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com
Dumaluan Beach at around 8:30-ish in the morning. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

I remembered that waters around Panglao are shallow so I had to swim all the way past the fishing boats for the perfect depth for free diving. Its tiring; so next time I better bring a torpedo floater with diving flag (there are a lot of diving and fishing boats around that can kill you if you suddenly surface with a propeller just above you) and a diving donut to hold my stuff (like baby shampoo to defog my mask). Kayak is useless because I just tipped it over and getting into that silly thing was harder than I thought. I rented a kayak in the nearby water sports rental shop within Bohol Beach Club. It was a complete waste of money since I just tethered the thing to one of the buoys, which was still halfway to where I was supposed to dive.

The island’s underwater ridge slowly descends but the thought of encountering sharks or strong currents was enough to scare me into sticking along or just near the edge before the sea floor slopes deeper into blue nothingness. I also made sure the fishing boats were within hearing distance in case something happens to me. NOTE TO SELF: DO NOT DIVE ALONE.

There was a man spear fishing among the sea grasses. He was using homemade wooden flippers, not different from what the Badjaos use, to dive deep down. He had a kayak with him for his gear and to take him back to shore. He set up his net to close in on the fish he needed to make bulad (dried fish). I watched him for some time, fascinated with how he speared the fish and then hooked them in his line. I proceeded to swim further as not to disturb him.

I chatted with some of the guys in the white boat just anchored nearby. They said theirs is a diving boat and they just wait for summons from resorts around Panglao if guests wanted to go on a diving trip.

I realized that swimming from the shore to the diving spot is uber tiring so I really needed a boat or a kayak. This affected my ability to dive since my oxygen intake is already compromised. Note to self: hire a small boat to spare me all that swimming and to use a spot to rest in between dives. There’s a reason SCUBA divers rent a boat even though its just shallow diving. This is not Anilao where you can have enough depth for diving.

I came ashore about noon, as the water became more violent, with the waves rising as the tide came in. I panicked for a moment but got hold of myself. But what the waves did to me was it just made diving more tiring and swimming to shore is double the hassle.

Lounging at Dumaluan Beach, Panglao, Bohol. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

Had lunch at the resort’s restaurant. Food was ok, but be prepared to spend around PHP 400-PHP 500 for a meal/pax. You are a captive market. For other options, you need to travel further, either you hail a tricycle by walking a few hundred meters and hope that a tricycle pass by to take you to Alona Beach or in the opposite direction. Or you rent a motorbike for PHP 500/day.

The pool was tempting to help me cool off. I think I already turned brown after just a few hours in the sea.

Dumaluan Beach – Marilou Resort adult pool. This photo is owned by callmecreation.com

They have a couple of kiddie pools, which I think will amuse my girls for a bit. But since they’re intermediate swimmers and good divers, they would opt for the biggest pool, which was over 6 ft at one end.

I thought I’ve had enough diving for the day; I didn’t want to fight with the waves anymore and just relaxed by the pool and by the shore.

I arranged for a boat trip to Balicasag the next day with the front desk, which was PHP 2,500, which included dolphin watching at 6 am.

I am in love again with Bohol.